Tart de Bry and Rys (Rice mould)
On Sunday I handed out a medieval recipe at the A&S meeting. It’s an easy one, basically a cheese quiche or pie (Tart de Bry, 14thc England). The recipe starts with the original recipe language, a translation of the recipe, and then one cook’s modern interpretation.
Your challenge is to make that same recipe, which we’ll share with all attendees on November 12 (two weeks). Use the modern interpretation, or go to the original and make your own version! Write down the proportions that you used, and the steps, to accompany your creation. We’ll taste and compare, and share recipes on November 12. (This is a side activity, not the main A&S course.)
BUT WAIT! There’s more!
Our young chefs-in-training have an option to participate as well! I have a second, simpler, concoction for the younger cooks (Rice Mould, 15th century). Encourage your mini-mes to give it a try!
From “A Boke of Gode Cookery” website: http://www.godecookery.com/mtrans/mtrans40.htm
PERIOD: England, 14th century | SOURCE: Forme of Cury | CLASS: Authentic
DESCRIPTION: A cheese tart
174. Tart de Bry. Take a crust ynche depe in a trap. Take yolkes of ayren rawe & chese ruayn & medle it & þe yolkes togyder. Do þerto powdour gynger, sugur, safroun, and salt. Do it in a trap; bake it & serue it forth.
– Hieatt, Constance B. and Sharon Butler. Curye on Inglish: English Culinary Manuscripts of the Fourteenth-Century (Including the Forme of Cury). New York: for The Early English Text Society by the Oxford University Press, 1985.
GODE COOKERY TRANSLATION:
Tartee. Make a pie crust an inch deep in a pie pan. Take yolks of eggs raw & Autumn cheese & mix it & the yolks together. Do there-to powder ginger, sugar, saffron, and salt. Do it in a pie shell; bake it & serve it forth.
- One nine-inch pie shell
- Raw Egg Yolks
- Cheese – a semi-soft, but not so soft that it can’t be grated. See note below.
- Ginger (powder)
Combine the final 6 ingredients – the mixture needs to essentially be grated cheese held together with the egg yolk; the final consistency should be slightly runny. Place this filling in a pie shell and bake until the pastry is golden brown and the filling has set.
The original recipe implies that Brie cheese is to be used; however, “chese ruayn,” also called “rewen” or “rowen” in other Medieval sources, was Autumn cheese, made after the cattle had fed on the second growth. This was apparently a semi-soft cheese, but not as soft as a ripe modern Brie: one period recipe says to grate it. It appears to be the same cheese called fromage de gaing in France.
Found in Seven Hundred Years of English Cooking (ISBN: 0-671-05973-4) and cited from: Two Fifteenth-century Cookery Books.
Take a porcyoun of Rys & pyke hem clene, & seethe hem welle & late hem kele; then take gode Mylke of Almaundys & do ther-to, & seethe & stere hem wyle; & do ther-to sugne an hony, & seue forth.
1/2 c rice
2 ½ c water
2 ½ c almond milk
¼ c sugar
4 TBSP honey
Pour the rice into the boiling water, stir and then simmer until tender. Drain. Return the rice to a smaller saucepan, add the almond milk, sugar and honey and stir well. Bring to the boil and then simmer gently, stirring continually, for 10-12 minutes, or until thick. Allow to cool. Pour into an oiled mould and chill. Turn out and serve.